Dynamical Precursors and Temporal Persistence of Environmental Forcing in Wave Overtopping at a Field-Scale Breakwater

Abstract

Abstract

Wave overtopping is one of the most complex coastal hazards to characterize in field conditions due to its high non-linearity and the interaction between unsteady hydrodynamics and wave–structure processes. To get insights into the underlying occurrence and persistence of overtopping, this study proposes an integration of numerical and data-driven models. Multi-month field observations made at a breakwater are used to investigate the hydro-meteorological parameters causing overtopping initiation and persistence. High-frequency video-derived overtopping detections are combined with coupled ADCIRC–UnSWAN (ADvanced CIRCulation–Unstructured Simulating WAves Nearshore) hindcasts to construct near-structure hydro-meteorological conditions. The results reveal a clear dynamical asymmetry showing that overtopping initiation corresponds to exceedance of crest elevation at individual wave-scale associated with elevated wave height, water level, wave steepness, and wind characteristics, whereas overtopping persistence depends on short-term temporal effects associated with wave energy, direction, and sustained water levels. Gradient-boosted decision trees, temporal convolutional networks, and Transformer models are employed, demonstrating that persistence cannot be inferred from instantaneous sea-states alone, indicating a separation of timescales between triggering and sustained overtopping dynamics. These findings provide field-scale evidence of distinct hydrodynamic regimes governing overtopping processes, highlighting the importance of temporal characteristics for understanding overtopping dynamics and developing predictive coastal hazard frameworks.